Jacket Required: Why This Quilted Cover-Up Is the Ultimate Fall Find
by Shoko Wanger
With Labor Day behind us, so begins the inevitable passage to fall. To those dreading the steady descent to a crisper, cooler climate, fear not: New York City menswear designer Daniel Dugoff has you covered—literally. “The Philip Jacket, a new style for my Fall/Winter collection, is that perfect fall weight,” he says. “It’s going to keep you warm on chilly nights, but it isn’t too heavy to wear all day.”
A collared coach’s jacket designed to highlight key elements found across the line—dolman sleeves; welt-less pocket construction; facing stitched through the body, up the front and around the back—the many-wondered beauty culminates in a single, show-stopping detail: It’s made using one-off quilts, produced from fabric scraps Dugoff felt he couldn’t throw away at the end of the previous season. The quilting, he says, “takes everything to another level.”
“The fabrics come from almost every DDUGOFF season so far,” he continues. “There are various widths and colors of corduroy from the FW16 collection, wool and cashmere suitings from FW15, linen and silk fabric from SS16, and oxford and flannel shirting fabrics from basically every other season thus far. What makes the jacket so special is that each one is different. We're using the same general geometry and group of fabrics in the same colors for each jacket, but the placement of the fabrics and colors changes across the quilt. Some jackets are much more navy, or green, or ochre, depending on where on the quilt each piece comes from. If you look at five jackets next to each other, you’ll see they’re all definitely from the same family, but each has its own personality.”
With a finished jacket taking several weeks to complete, it’s a true labor of love—and time, and teamwork, too (the patchworks are completed by a quilter in Atlanta). As for how the finished product feels to slip on in the end, Dugoff says only, “I’m obsessed.”
Shop the Philip Jacket here or check out some of our other fall favs below.